www.dodo-upgrades.nl

Thanks, nice bay!

thanks Owen. that took quite a lot of effort.

while looking around some more, I *did* find a picture of the looped rack.

inlet and outlet before looping:




after looping:

i get the first picture and i understand the first picture only - the two holes in the rack in the first picture - "inlet and oulet" are simply holes and not pipes where u can mount a rubber tube on it - but somehow u connected them both - how ?
by simply fitting a tube in the hole and another tube in the other hole?

the 2nd pic - dont even talk abt it - its too different than the first picture .

i see the loop but everything around it just confuses me alot - in comparison of picture they both look so different -

the first one is nice and easy but the 2nd is just complicated.

i cant even understand what is what here and there.

im sure u had hard time putting liquid in the rack as it was coming out once u opend the inlet and outlet - how did u manage to put the liquid back in ? did u use a rubber pump and tube to put the liquid back in,?

anyway i understood what u did but i dont think its gona circulate by itself. it will circulate only when the car is moving and when ur doing turns only then the liquid is circulated in the rack but its damn hard when the car is at complete stop..!! i cant imagine how ur doing that. but how is ur car taking the friction when ur steering at parking and when the stering is hard..doesnt that spoil something else while turning ?

the holes to be plugged with barb fittings like this one:



pouring steering fluid was real easy. fix one end of the U pipe to a nipple and keep gradually pouring fluid through the other end until it starts to overflow. then plug the open end. it took all of 2 minutes to complete.

the PS pump exists to amplify steering input applied by the driver. eg. if I apply 1 unit of torque to the steering wheel, the pump will amplify it to maybe 10 units. without the pump, I myself will have to apply 10 units of torque. ultimately, the torque applied to the tie rod ends remains 10 units. the rack is designed to handle this.

the internet is filled with instances of people who have deleted their PS assembly and I am yet to come across someone who has suffered a drivetrain failure because of it. as long as the internal components are kept lubricated, I do not see any logical reason for failure. I have been running like this for around 3 months now and haven't heard a single squeak or grind from the rack.

sometime later, I have a mind to try and install a breather setup and see what sort of difference that makes. I'll try to take and post some close up pictures if and when that happens.

okay so that's what you used " barb fittings " i think u had to go out of ur way to get those from a shop. im sure there are sizes too

good luck with the breather setup
sry we got on the wrong foot there buddy

tc

cheers.

Does any one know what size barb fittings are needed for the power steering delete/loop on the 96-00 model?

Such arent car accessories so im guessing we have to figure it out.

hey,
I'v read on tinternet that the fitting sizes for the inlet and outlet for 99-2000 civics (eg d14z2 Jangz ) are 14.5mmX1.5mm and 16mmX1.5mm.
Iv found some on ebay for like £5-6 quid , then the piping will cost a few quid

Hope this helps, i'm looking forward to doing it myself

I was away from home for a month. came back to find the car in a mess. after fixing everything, when I took the car out, found the steering *rock hard*. it never felt this way before so I knew something wasn't right. when I inspected the rubber hose I used to loop the rack, I found that it was perforated by a rat bits and had lost all fluid. so I decided to use something better.



clear braided PVC hose rated for some very high pressures. this one should outlast almost everything. also, without a lift, I had some trouble pouring fluid and keeping it from spilling while I connected the open end of the hose to the barb on the rack. so I made a cut in the hose at the highest point where it made a U turn and stuck another brass nipple in there. now I can simply disconnect one end from there, fill both sides to the brim using an oil squirt can like this one and then close the connection.



the hose being clear gives me a very nice view of the fluid circulating around when the steering is turned and the amount of air trapped in the system. if I monitor the size of the air bubble over a period of time, I should be able to identify any losses, leaks etc. it's quite cool.

oh, and once I put some fluid in, the steering freed up very very noticeably. so anybody who wants to delete his power steering, make sure you have fluid in there. I would highly recommend using a clear hose so you can monitor your fluid level.