1999 FL D14 OBD1 coversion with P28 ECU

[gofra]

Hi folks,

I know this thing has probably been covered in different posts already but since this all is a little confusing to gather together, I was hoping you guys could perhaps still help me here ...

I own a FL 1999 Civic, currently having made these mods:

- D16 Intake manifold with 190 ccm injectors
- B16 stock Air intake with first resonator removed (hole plugged)
- Stock D14 TB
- D16 Exhaust manifold with stock lambda (I think it's 4 wire one)
- custom made exhaust midsection (from cat to the muffler) / B16 copy

Now, I was expecting a little more from these mods, to be honest, so I started thinking of going OBD1. The reason for doing so is (please, correct me if Im wrong):

- I can get a P28 ECU (clean) + conversion harness for around 100 EUR
- I believe I can get rid of the cat with OBD1?
- I do not need to change the dizzy as my car is 1999?
- car uses a preheated lambda (4 wires, correct?)?
- I can do a proper tune up (and I still have the 240 ccm injectors), again, relatively cheap

So, if Im not mistaken, the only thing missing besides what I wrote here, would be a laptop + software + a trained person to do the tuning properly, am I right?

Side question: ever since I have done the "ESi" mods, my injectors have been ticking under slight load (and sometimes in idle too). I've heard other people having same issue but non managed to resolve it so far. Any ideas?

Many many thanx for all the answers!


Best

[richy]

You can get rid of the cat on any car that only runs 1 lambda sensor (pre cat) without getting a c.e.l.
You will need to socket the ecu and add data logging (data logging will help tuner and the time it takes so reduces cost) and then install a chip with the finalised map on it. You can turn the lambda off totally in crome though.

OBD1 civic esi and vti (p28/p30 ecu) both use a 4 wire heated lambda sensor the only difference is the d16z6 uses one in a primary runner of exhaust manifold and b16 has lambda behind engine just before cat).

You will have to remove the vps and vtec solenoid function using options in the ecu software or you will get a c.e.l. for faulty vtec solenoid.
You still use both map tables and switch over point in the software to allow a better detail to the tune but it makes no effect to engine running as there is no solenoid to activate.

The dizzy should be fine as it matches the engine harness.

Along with the software, laptop and an ostrich or similar if your tuner doesn't have one and data logger is needed along with some provision to mount a wideband lambda sensor is needed for tuning, weather its clamped to the tail pipe or installed in the manifold.

the ostrich allows real time update of the ecu maps instead of burning a map, data logging it then making alterations then burning another chip and repeating.
www.moates.net is their website and u will find ostrich, data logger and a chip burner there if your tuner doesn't do a lot of Honda's.

[gofra]

Thnx richy!

So roughly, what kind of cost are we looking at here? Namely, that is going to be a deciding factor whether I am going to do it or not...

I fear, this whole thing will surpass the 350 EUR mark I set as limit :/

Best, F

[richy]

To buy an ostritch data logger and chip burner works out at £310 (430 eur) plus delivery from h-tune which is run by a super helpful guy called scot. You may get a better deal using ebay though. All of these bits you can use to tune friends cars or sell on after you've tuned your car as you burn a chip with the final map and remove them from the car. equally if you can find somewhere in your country who tunes using crome or an equivalent then you only need buy the ecu, chipping kit and adapter harness as the tuner will already have the other bits.

[gofra]

Thnx richy!

[richy]

No problem at all

[gofra]

Bah, one more question...

Seems like I was not born under a lucky star - the Civic I bought appears to have some ignition lock problems. The engine randomly shuts down and sometimes, I'm unable to turn the ignition on when starting. Takes several attempts to make it run. From what I have read, some fl models had issues and Honda even offered a free fix.

So now I am guessing, is it possible to buy an older version ECU (non facelift up to 98) and plug it in with corresponding lock and keys or is some kind of conversion kit neccessary for that too? As far as I know, my OBD is 2b,while the old ones are 2a. If it is plug and play I might go for this as I would also like to get rid of the cat...if not, however, going to OBD1 with a P28 probably sounds as a better idea, correct?

Sorry for the annoyance, but I have no idea who else to ask around where I live....

Thnx again!

[archyman]

Getting p06 and chipping it seems better option in your situation.

[gofra]

Thnx!

[richy]

the obd2a/b ecu plugs are totally different on the ej9's, so im not sure an adapter harness exists but you could de solder the plugs from a brocken ecu and some from a wiring loom and make your own? if you can get a p06 ecu you can use them but having a p28/p30 saves having to add the vtec board if you ever decide to get a vtec head or buy a d/b16 engine swap.

Any obd1 ecu will remove the factory immobiliser as they never had them. does the green key light on the dash come on when it wont start or as it cuts out? you can also de solder the factory Immobiliser chip from within the ecu if it turns out to be a an immob problem.

There are several other things that could cause your problem though, pgmfi relay may be faulty which is a fairly common problem in Hondas, fuel pump may be faulty, some sort of distributor problem causing no/weak spark