D16Z6 IM swap on my EJ9 - IDLE problem

[mynameisowen]

Another vacuum leak it was... damn, happens a lot. I can only advice everybody doing these kind of swaps see if the gasket matches with both the IM and TB before installing.

x1,000,000

At least the problem was solved and we have 1 more happy D14 driver

[StupidDuck]

The leak is solved, but I still have a idle problem

The car idles to 950 rpm, very stable, but with the idle screw all way closed. If I rev it (just a little push on the throttle) it doesn't come back to idle very fast (2 or 3 sec).

I have a CEL : code 7 (TPS) - 10 (IAT) and 14 (IACV => RACV). Maybe these sensors are shot... but they were running good before the IM swap.

The throttle body is now super clean and well adjusted, the throttle feel is very smooth (it was a bit sticky before)

I tried reseting the ECU (removed the ecu fuse for 1 hour) but the CEL is still there.

[mynameisowen]

Hmm all I can suggest before the more knowleadgable guys get here is triple check the wiring (unplug it all then plug it back in again) and then reset the ECU.

[StupidDuck]

Yep, I'll do that tomorrow

[Dodo Bizar]

That is weird... did you do anything to the wiring? As long as you did no OBD1 conversion, the wiring should all be original D14... except for elongating some wires perhaps.

When does the CELL apear? Do you get all codes immediatly? (After a full reset, meaning hook off the battery for a while, ~1 minute).

Getting 3 CELLs at once really sounds fishy. The high rpm might be due to bad RACV wiring. You did not happen to mount the IACV and try hooking it up with the RACV wiring while running stock ECU?

[twister]

If i may interrupt:

yesterday i fastened de last bolt, and filled the car with oil and coolant.
first try: started right away, no CEL's nothing, idled at about 2000, and after 15 seconds or so, it also started to yo-yo between 1200 and 1800, exactly the same thing.

i thought, well okay, the coolant system needs to bleed air, just give her the time, but today no bubbles in de radiator-cap opening, but still yo-yo'ing.

Also blocked off the TB with my palm, but my car died immediatly after putting my palm on, and it sucked as strong as a regular vacuumcleaner.

a buddy said "maybe you switched the TPS en MAP" , but DoDo told me with color wires are at what position in the plugs, so i was convinced i connected everything right.
But i could give it a shot, so i did, and the idling did turned down and got stable, but the engine died after a lil'bit of revving, so i connected the plugs back as they were before, but still bad idling....

really the same things mentioned by StupidDuck...

[twister]

my problem has been fixed: badly rotating RACV, opened it up, cleaned and filled it with wd40, gave it af few turns and it turned very smooth ever since, no idling problems or CEL's whatsoever.

[Dodo Bizar]

Nice to know, does not happen that much that it actually was a bad RACV... but you are the proof it does happen.

[StupidDuck]

Hi all !

I've juste resolved my CEL ! I was trying to correct the alignement of my front bumper, when I noticed that a wire from ma TA sensor was hanging in the air

I'v made a very cheap repair (the wire is cut to close to the sensor, ...I'll have to buy a new plug) but it works !

By the way, it is still slow to come back to idle after reving the engine a bit.

Time for maintenance now : hamp oil / air filter and shell helix 15W40 (little oil consumption...) !

Next "big" upgrade will be to convert it to ODB1, new bushings and supsensions.