Bad Fuel Consumption!!!

[Dodo Bizar]

Correct, I changed the cam gear. Kept the dizzy the same (so I actually had to move the dizzy equal to the cam gear or opposite... uh).

But wait... if you have stock EJ9 ECU and 240cc injectors THAT's your reason right there. These will immensely spray too much and the lambda will try to correct under partial load, but you'd be surprised how often it is not partial. Especially when the fuel is too rich anyways. Not the case I hope?

[jangz]

No, no that's not the case for me, I have a chipped P28 ECU, 240cc injectors, z6 head, intake and z6 dizzy on 1 bolt like yours.

Will the d14 dizzy fit with the bolt pattern of the z6 head and d14 block? I'm sure I read Lumpenst on here used his D14 one but had to bore out the bolt hole to get it to sit right. Not sure if it will only sit with 1 bolt or all 3??

So am I right in saying to get the ignition timing at 16 degree (standard D16z6 timing) and then adjust the cam gear at the tuning stage to attain better power?

I'm just waiting to receive my timing light to get it sorted hopefully this week.

[BETEK]

Maybe this link can help you somehow
http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/7.html

[jangz]

Hey Guys, here is an update of my current situation.

After the D16z6 Vtec head swap, I had really bad stuttering when driving at low revs. I changed the lambda sensor and it felt a little better but after a few days it started again.

When the head swap was done the dizzy was put in such a way that it was hanging off one bolt which I read was fine but I had it rotated to make it fit better as it should and now surprisingly fits on all 3 holes and timing is set right YEY. This has stopped the car from giving that stuttering at the lower revs.

Car runs smooth and gets to a 100mph but struggles to get to 115mph (not sure if that is normal as the d14 head before this got me to 130mph top-end)

Any way.... I filled my car again as I do normally do to 30 litres of fuel and drive both city and motor way driving.

30 litres is only getting me 200-180 miles...... I am not sure if I am going crazy or if this is normal because I am 100% this is really, really, really crap. I calculated it and its comes to 22mpg even when I did a full tank 100% motor way it came to a similar figure of 22mpg (I'm sure I am losing like 60+ miles off my tank that I should be getting)

Timing is fine,
Dizzy is set right and since that the car is driving sweet.
Lambda sensor changed and seems fine.

When starting the car cold the rev go to around 2k rpm and then goes lower after a little while and idles sweet after that. Car feels absolutely normal and smooth.

WTF is causing such a low MPG rating?

(could a high mix of radiator coolant than water ratio, cause this issue? I don't think so but though I should ask)

Is the dynamics of this head something that could increase the fuel consumption? I am driving very sensibly and mature. Tyre pressure and alignment are fine. It all stated after the head swap.

PLEASE HELP ITS KILLING ME >_<

[BETEK]

It is seems that something going wrong.
Did you check the ecu maybe it has stored fault code.
But I am prity sure that the problem is the timing or electronic that related with timing issue.
Maybe the distributer has problem, maybe the spark plugs, maybe the spark cords. If you can swap these parts from another car and see if there is any improvement.
And some minor possible causes of the problem can be: wrong valve adjustment, dirty air and fuel filter and injectors.

[jangz]

I am waiting on a new set of NGK Iridium Spark Plugs (heat grade 7) and NGK Wires (Blue).

I have a really good air filter so I'm sure what AIR is going in is clean.

The guy who fitted my z6 head is a really good at what he does and also followed the walk-through and set the valve adjustment to the stock measurements. Should the adjustment be off how much of an impact would I see and what other symptoms would show due to this? At the moment it seems fine but I may be wrong and unaware. It would be difficult for me to get this changed and if its fine its going to cost me a lot to check.

Regarding injectors can the car still drive smooth yet really cause this much of a fuel loss? Will run some injector cleaner soon to see what is up. (no lights come up what so ever)

The timing is fine as I check with a strobe and also the car runs smooth all the way to red-line and general driving so if it was the dizzy, I am sure I would know by now because rotating the dizzy has fixed an issue that the dizzy had caused (a stutter a low revs), but that's fixed.

I have to change the oil, oil filter also as its been a while but my issue is that it was right after the head swap that caused my bad fuel consumption.

[BETEK]

If I remember well you running p28 ecu and D16 injectors.
The ecu basemap that you running has been set to work with D14 engine and bigger injectors?
If not maybe there is the problem (wrong basemap) for bad fuel consumption and lower top speed

[saxophonias]

check the air fuel ratio. In this way you will be able to see exactly what is going wrong. Spend 160euros to buy an aem wideband which is a must for a tuned car. There is something wrong with the ecu maps or the injectors. Your sparks will be very smoked due to rich mixture for sure.

[lelouchvi]

@jangz, after a bit of reading your post and started to look at my fuel and miles. I am getting something like 50 miles to 7.75 litre max in 100% urban runs. I refill everytime after the lights come on. ihave no problem with the engine in idle or high revs. I am questioning as well, as I recall before the swap and the exhaust manifold change. After reading Firebass, he has a point on the position of the sensor as I have place the first sensor in the exhaust mani but it''s only taking reading on one stroke of the engine. and the second one is jsut reading normal air as my old cat dies and new cat doesnt have a hole there and the wire is not long enough to reach further forward in the second hole in the exhaust mani!

Do you have similar setup in the exhaust manifold?

[jangz]

Well I have some good news and thought I should test it all out before writing another post like a damsel in distress LOL.

I noticed that my distributor was placed almost upside down (on one bolt), But in my situation this was not right or working for my car as the spark was hitting off the point, so I had it rotated even though the mechanic was totally adamant that it wont go in any other way or fit the other holes an stated that the timing would be totally off if we did that, but I forced him at gun point (lol joke) and had it turned so it looked normal like my old dizzy did and now it actually fits on all 3 holes.

This fixed my stuttered driving at 1, 2 and 2.5k rpm's. This also fixed part of the fuel issue. The other major factor I had with my car was that I bought an AEM Brute Force Air Filter (its big and sounds awesome) but I was using an aluminium pipe (which is for my inter cooler) but it wasn't cut and placed the filter on the tip of the pipe and it sat right behind the right head lights and had no real access to good air flow if any air as the radiator was also blocking it, nor do I have a hole in the chassis that would be there for an cold air intake.

So i took it off (at the moment no filter) eeee stupid I know, but I will get something done soon. Any way the car was filled up £52 (40 litres) and I managed to get 430 miles out of the tank with motorway and city miles (trip to London + London traffic) which = 48. something MPG...

That to me is my world record. How = totally changed my driving style in fact now that I managed to see what my civic can do, i been looking into eco modding. Most of that is more to do with Aero Mods, so that's my success story. I'm srue with a new service and oil change and fitting my new ngk iridum and ngk 9mm blue wires will also improve my economy. Also pumped the tyres to 37psi (i know this is silly but it worked) some even pump them to 45psi (max limit, but don't do that) also go rid of some junk in the trunk. ^_^ WOO HHOOO