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can i put TB of the vti to my intake manifold d16z6 ?

Yes you can but don't need you because you will lose power

i wouldn't too, but you can always try and dyno your d14 so as to see what happens

Saxophonias i already sticked with the d14 TB so all ok , i made today also the hole under the filter and i installed the pipe to get the cold air ...
i hope we meet today , cz i really want u to see what i ve done ))

i got a friend wwith a d14a2 i think and he installed a SKUNK manifold all worked fine , then he tried to change the throttle body and replace with the VTI throttle body but didnt work cz of the RAVC/IAVC anyway he put back his old one but then he had problem with with the RPM he had about 300 , we raised with the screw the RPM in the correct position but when he is driving and change gears the RPM go to 2000 and stay there (in the moments that he has N gear) and when he stops the car after some seconds the RPM goes to normal !?!?!? whats goin on ?

Dodo Bizar wrote:Yup, that is delayed reaction, the current ECU and valve combi expects a much smaller plenum and needs less air to pass initially. Now the pressure in the plenum builds up too slow and almost stalls your engine.

I have the same problem since I went from OEM to Skunk2 IM which again is a plenum increase.

So getting the OBD1 swap should fix this or at least improve. Your ECU tuner should be able to change the reaction speed of the valve later on

hi there, from reading this it sounds like is the reason mine stalls at times since the IM swap.
i was wondering if anyone knows whether the IM swap(d16z6 onto d14z2) causes dodgy idle up to 3000rpm, anything to do with the mixture being lean or something??because ever since the swap, my cars engine light comes on time to time and the idle is bad at times.....
any help appreciated!tom

Best thing is to identify the error code it throws (something about short circuiting the service connector, the one with only 2 wires, and counting the blinks of the check engine light...)

D16Z6 IM on D14Z2 should NOT give these problems. Should be fine with stock ECU. Sounds more like an air leak somewhere, 3000 rpm can't be achieved by the idle valves. Not even fully opened in my experience.

Dodo Bizar wrote:Best thing is to identify the error code it throws.
Sounds more like an air leak somewhere, 3000 rpm can't be achieved by the idle valves. Not even fully opened in my experience.

hi there, i thort it could of been a leak, but its erratic.the idle can be fine for ages, then sometimes just by putting extra load in the car(passenger) it wil rev to nearly 3000rpm at junctions.

the lamba sensor was found to be dodgy/broken when the car was being mapped(one of the 4 wires was half rubbed through) . ive since replaced it, but the EML keeps coming on ......
il see if i can borow a fault reader, and il let uno what i find.
much appreciated, tom

You don't need a fault reader. You can do it with a simple pice of electric wire . The fault reader is not necessary per see.