www.dodo-upgrades.nl

Thanks vry much for clearing that up. ALOT clearer now

The bigger tb only cost me £16 so i thought it was worth a shot at using. Origonally bought it just to get the spring and mechanism off it because of moving to a side feed inlet. i shall just take the mechanism and spring off and use the standard d14 one.

Thanks again!

whatch out that my D14 TB gone bunkers =) with RACV, it could not adapt himself to the biggest flow. it drove 300kms like that, with idle varying from 1000-2000rpms. That was a pain ! Then i close looped RACV And it is more or less ok. I reccommend do OBD 1 swap ASAP in order to install IACV and have dynamic idle again =) Cheers

You could actually mount the racv on the sideflow intake manifold with some sort of adaptor plate.They both have 2 channels that has the same function.One that takes air before the throttle body and one that takes air after the throttle body(inside the intake manifold).
I drove around for a while with such adaptor plate i made myself when i first had my intake manifold swap done.I didn't had a iacv sensor then that's why i solved it like that temporary.

I made that plate out of a thick (10mm)aluminium piece of metal.I used the gasket of the iacv and the gasket of the Racv to make the adoptor plate.

I just done a d16 im swap ( d16z6 manifold ). And my idle vary a little bit.

When i'm at 5km/h or more, the lower idle is 1100. When i'm at 0 km/h it's 800-700. And it descrease 1 sec when i stop the car, to up to 700-800.

I tried to look where's the problem but didn't find it...

when you are at 5km/h idle is normal as engine accelerates itself not to shut down. Dont make the engine do this effort Seems normal to me. When cold, idle is 1500rpms?

Cold idle should be somewhere between 1500-2000, depends on outside temp as well. It goes smoothly towards 750 when the engine warms up.

But when rolling, the idle is put higher on purpose. Officially it is 900 rpm, but with a little offset on the dial you could easily read 1100 rpm. No problem, it is correct behaviour. I think it is some built-in safety to overcome rev dips when applying heavy braking while high speed and idling.

I will not idle when heavy braking, but according to most driving training here you should... bunch of numbo jumbo environmentalists which don't get the fact that it is better to not idle during braking. "The engine wears out sooner that way" is their comment. Well yeah, but the wearing of your brake pads is a lot more and fuel consumption is non-zero at idle. If your an evironment-freak do it the right way paleaze. Major offtopic, sorry.

No, the motor sounds differant. Its not a offset or anything else.

+5km/h i'm at 1000-1100
-5km/h i'm at 700-800.

I'm driving, i push the clutch pedal, rev goes 1100. I brake, rev still 1100 until i'm at 5km/h, it falls 300-400, and goes 700-800.

And the engine warms up earlier than stock.

Stock, when you push the clutch pedal, rev falls 900 direct, and don't change.

Who cares about environment? CO² is a way to make money for governments, no other reasons.

Skeilz wrote:No, the motor sounds differant. Its not a offset or anything else.

+5km/h i'm at 1000-1100
-5km/h i'm at 700-800.

I'm driving, i push the clutch pedal, rev goes 1100. I brake, rev still 1100 until i'm at 5km/h, it falls 300-400, and goes 700-800.

And the engine warms up earlier than stock.

Stock, when you push the clutch pedal, rev falls 900 direct, and don't change.

Who cares about environment? CO² is a way to make money for governments, no other reasons.

Your wasting fuel though. =P