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Cam Gear is essencial indeed.

I did a compression test yesterday and it revealed i had low compression in cylinder #1 and #4. Also i have a problem with my injector sockets in which the the one belonging to #1 and #4 pops out while car is moving.

The car also shakes while idling. If i remove the spark plug cable or injector socket from 1st and 4th cyl. not much changes with the idle but when i unplug 2 or 3 car dies. It's like the car was running on 2 cylinders at idle only. If i give it some revs the shaking stops.

So today i checked injector signals with oscilloscope and signals are all good. Changed places of injectors, still problem on cyl1 and cyl4. After that i secured the injector sockets with tie zips. Then did a valve clearance adjustment. #1 and #4 came out to be too tight. After clearance adjustment did a new compression test and now all cylinders came out same with #4 slightly lower. Started the car and the idle is still shaky. But now when i unplug #1 the idle drops like it should but unplugging #4 doesnt make a huge difference.

Also yesterday my ignition coil went out so i replaced it with a spare and a mechanic grinded off the oxidation build up on ignition leads in the dizzy. Thinking of something can be wrong with those i tried a different dizzy cap and that didn't solve either.

I don't think a compression diff. of 0.5bar would result in such shaky working. I can't come up with any more ideas atm... Need some advice on what to check next.

Btw car runs fine atm performance is much better and car revs more easily at high rpms although the mapping is not fine tuned. But the shake at idle is driving me nuts...

my engine shakes like hell at idle and sometimes nearly stalls. this is down to my bad cam timing at the minute. i still have to set it.

haynes manual also says that the maximum compression difference between each cylinder is 2bar so 0.5 aint too bad.

what did ur compression read in bar?

Check out if the engine mounts are in good condition.
Then if the spark plugs are the proper.
And clear the injectors and change the fuel filter.

marty40 wrote:what did ur compression read in bar?

The compression test was done by removing one spark plug at a time while other 3 where left on block. Readings came out to be;

11.0 11.2 11.1 10.5 bar

Some people do the test by removing all 4 spark plugs at the same time and taking readings. That way i get higher numbers in the 12.5 range.
The injector clips and spark plug cables where off in both tests.

What's bugging me is that when the car is idling if i take off the injector clip of 4th cyl. the tone of the engine doesn't change much. Same for 1st cyl while it's a bit more noticeable. But if i do this either for 2nd or 3rd car nearly dies.

This is either a problem with my injector clips and/or wiring, or ignition related or mechanical. I'll try a complete dizzy with spark cables, and will change injector sockets and do wiring nicely on monday. If it doesn't solve i'll try my stock ECU to see if it's Ecu related. If still not solved it's probably something in the valvetrain...Maybe something like vtec rockers getting stuck and leaving the engine working from vtec lobes at idle only on 1st and 4th cylinders. I don't know i'm just making an ASSumption.

Just a weird idea. Stock d14 have the simplified fuel injection system. That is the injectors work in pairs like 1-4/ 2-3. This means 2 different signals instead of 4. Maybe it has something to do with the one pair?

But he does have mpfi already right?

how your feelings?
whether they have so much difficulty?
I have a D166 head, but I think I put it, I ezdiyu maximum of 110km. and often at 3 transfer (I have 4 AT automatic)

The car is mpfi and it's an obd2b. Afaik, obd2b's don't have the paired injection as the obd2a's have.

What i realised is that if i drive the car without pushing it and without engaging vtec for more than 10 minutes the car starts to idle fine without any shaking. If I drive it hard the car starts shaking at idle again.

I'm guessing that the vtec solenoid is getting stuck because of the bypass trick. I'm gonna try to get my hands on a vtec pressure switch.

I found out that someone in the past had the same problem i had. He was using a z6 head on d15b7. From the posts it seems he couldn't either figure it out or just didn't post after it was solved.

Here is the link to his thread on hondatech;
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1648127