www.dodo-upgrades.nl

no problem my friend, it's the least thing i can do!!! well just to be sure, my engine has the 2 connectors, so 3 more wires to run into the new harness. The vtec system was actually understood from before... But well i figured this out a couple of days ago when watching the OEM wiring diagrams, and just remembered those unfamous orange/white and green wires... , hey dodo, how doyou take the wires out of the sockets to do the reppining? i just spent the hole morning trying to figure that out with no succes, i mean, i dont want to break the connectors...

There are some nice pictures of how to do it somewhere on the web.

I'll tell you this: it should go smooth or don't do it at all. You never need to pull the wires hard. If you do pull too hard, you have high risk of making an open wire (internal fracture) or simply breaking a pin.

I allways use a very tiny screwdriver. I stick it in above the pin from the ECU side. After 3 to 5 mm I should feel a bump. The bump is actual the restrictor that keeps the pin in its place. Now with small pressure applied on the back of the screwdriver I move the restrictor upwards by moving the end of the screwdriver downwards.

The restrictor should be open and the pin should be pulled out with ease.

(Up is the direction towards the connector clip.)

well finally i lost patience and cut off the wires and re solder... it was faster for me...

here guys some pics of the swap, i installed the head on the car today, you can see the mild port and polish on the exhaust side too.

When would be finished? Cheers

Well i'll probably have time to progress this week, but since i dont have the lambda it could take a little bit more than that; i'll keep you posted!!

I think this is the biggest topic on changing Cylinder Head, so here is my question.

I looked at your D14A4 yesterday, I saw on the left side, a temperature sensor (1 wire) - his number 37750-PH2-014.

In D16Z6 I did not find such, I am badly looking for? Why is it necessary? by changing OBD1, the sensor is removed from the wiring?

HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLPPP!!!!! so i finally finished the mini-me today, since i received the lambda i started the car and.... CRAP!!!!!
well it started, wich is good, but first thing the idle was so high, like 2100 rpm's end then i noticed the head is very very noisy like crac-crac- crac-crac, so i re checked the timing at the camgear just to be sure the pistons aren't hitting the valves. then restarted the car again and the same problem. i guess the gap between the rockers and the valve stem is to high, so i'll re do that tomorrow to see if the crac-crac goes away. what do you think about the super high idle? have to mention that the fuel pressure on the gauge was arround 2.5 bar probably toohigh, and no engine error code. maybe the timing? a friend say that maybe the water temperature sensor is not the same between the D14 and the D16, therefore the resistance seen at the ecu is not the same???

heelp me guys!!!!

fuel pressure is right i guess. cannot help much more. how is valve clearance?

well i re checked valve clearance and re started the car, a bit less noise this time so i could let the car warm up, after that the idle started to go from 2000 rpms to almost 400, up and down, so the idle is not steady... any ideas??