www.dodo-upgrades.nl

I don't understand why u don't like the pm7 piston's at all..and the a6 is almoust the same as the a4..only diference is that the a6 has longer rod's and block and it's obd0..that's my choise..i will use the stock rod's from my d14 (for now) ,with pm7 piston's and for the begining i will not mill the head for seafty..and because the a6 has the same stock CR 9:1:1 like the d14 , with the pm7 piston's it will rise up to 12x because the d14's head has a smaller chamber room that the a6..i think it will work with 100co without detonation..

12:1 is quite high man. combustion pressures are gonna be a lot higher, maybe the d14 rods will fail quicker. and your gonna need a good tune to stop detonation.

I'm gonna' go with 100co ..i don't think detonation will apair..cheer's

You always need a good tune you can't run without one , def. not on 12 :1 cr and 100 octane fuel.If you try that without a tune you'll end up with a hole in your pistons.You don't even need 100 octane to run on 12 :1 compression.98 (Euro) octane will be enough with a good tune.

Have you even looked at a D16a6 ...?Notice the spark plugs are on the other side of the valve cover unlike the D14.That's your first major difference .2nd is the valves themself are under a different angle then D14 valves.Your pm7 domes don't match your d14 head.And 3th the combustion chamber has a different shape.

It's like i allready said 3 times before you can't just mix and match and expect it to work perfect.It will work ,but isn't the best option for your build.
Apperently it's really hard to understand for you ,but it's very simple.
Anyway i only give advise ,in the end you must decide what to do with the engine.

According to my previous research

Engine / Rod bearing size / Crank bearing size / Rod length
d14 / 43 or 41 / 45 / 137 or 138
d15 / 43 / 45 / 134
jdm d15b / 45 / 45 / 137
d16 / 45 / 48 / 137


or means im not sure which one. not like more than one option

According to this data d15b crank fits our engines and you can use forged internals made for d16s. This means we may see 400hp d14s in the future

Why go D15B crank? Get the crower D13B2 rods.

Dodo Bizar wrote:Why go D15B crank? Get the crower D13B2 rods.

Actually i didn't know such a forged rod existed. I think d13b2 rods are a better and easier solution (They seem to be a direct fit). The d16 rods could take more than the d13b2 rods due to the bigger big end size but with the d13b2 you don't loose the good R/S ratio of the d14. Thanks for pointing that out for me!

Offcourse expect to pay around $700-$800 for those rods.And if you're going to get them you might as well take the Maxi Light rods ,those are the lightest rods crower make.Ideal for a n/a engine or light boost engine.
If you wanting to boost a lot keep in mind a D14 crank has limitations like a d15 crank cause they are using a smaller crank journal.Endyn once said 350Hp would be the max for those cranks.

350hp the most, but for how long? I mean is it a safe number for long term reliability?

This is what Larry from Endyn said to me back then :

We've only built a couple D15's and they were for mild forced-induction applications. While the crankshaft journal diameters are less than the D16's, we've observed no problems with power under 425HP.
The shorter stroke would also contribute to better breathing with the D series (limited) porting/valve size.

I thought it was 350 hp but it's actually 425hp.As you can see he also says the shorter stroke helps in better breathing.That's why i rather sleeve the D14 and keep the shorter stroke